漢代筆記 vol.18 大都會博物館：東漢 金鑲玉梳 - Met Museum, Jade Comb with Gold Decoration

此件玉梳為東漢時期之遺物，通體以和田白玉（軟玉）雕琢成形，嵌以炸珠金飾，工藝非凡，為現藏紐約大都會藝術博物館之館藏標準器。梳形整體呈長方略弧狀，器表沿邊緣對稱鑲嵌細密金珠，為典型之漢代高等金工裝飾。

炸珠工藝，乃中國古代八大金工之一，其技術源自古代地中海世界。自公元前三千年美索不達米亞地區起始，至公元前九世紀由伊特魯里亞人發展至高峰，最終經由絲路傳入東方。該工藝以高純度金線剪段，加熱於炭火之上使之熔融而成球珠，經篩選後燒焊於器物表面，形成綿密之聯珠紋飾（又稱魚卵紋）。

漢代金工，在中西交流日益密切的背景下吸收並轉化外來技術，其中尤以炸珠與鎏金並列為裝飾之主流。

此玉梳不僅為日常梳理之用器，更可能為貴族女性配飾之器，兼具功能性與地位象徵性。其風格延續戰國至西漢以來玉器與金屬工藝相結合的美學脈絡，亦預示日後唐代金銀器之裝飾語彙雛形。

大都會博物館1916年東方部開幕展覽

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品名：梳子

時代：東漢（公元25–220年）

文化：中國

材質：玉（軟玉）、黃金

尺寸：高 5.1 公分；長 7.6 公分

類別：玉器

來源：由羅森克蘭茲基金會（The Rosenkranz Foundation）與雪莉・懷特（Shelby White）捐贈購藏

館藏編號：2004.322

Title: Comb

Period: Eastern Han dynasty (25–220)

Culture: China

Medium: Jade (nephrite) and gold

Dimensions: H. 2 in. (5.1 cm); L. 3 in. (7.6 cm)

Classification: Jade

Credit Line: Purchase, The Rosenkranz Foundation and Shelby White Gifts, 2004

Object Number: 2004.322

This jade comb, attributed to the Eastern Han dynasty (25–220 CE), exemplifies the refined union of nephrite carving and gold granulation—one of the highest forms of metalwork technique known in early imperial China. Now housed in The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (Accession No. 2004.322), it is recognized as a benchmark example of Han dynasty gold-and-jade craftsmanship.

The comb is carved from fine white nephrite and elegantly bordered with minuscule gold granules. This application of granulation—a technique known in Chinese as 炸珠 or “gold millet” (金粟)—involves heating uniformly cut segments of high-purity gold wire over charcoal to form spherical beads approximately 1mm in diameter. These are then carefully sorted and soldered onto a metal surface to create dense beaded patterns, often referred to as “string-of-pearls” or “roe-like” motifs.

Although the origins of granulation trace back to Mesopotamia around 3000 BCE and reached their apex among the Etruscans in central Italy by the 9th century BCE, it was during the Han dynasty that such methods arrived in China via the overland and maritime Silk Roads. This transference of technology contributed to the blossoming of Chinese goldsmithing arts, which by the Tang dynasty counted granulation among the “Eight Great Techniques of Ancient Chinese Goldwork” (中國古代金工藝八絕): gilding, filigree inlay, repoussé, damascening, cloisonné, granulation, chiseling, and wire-twisting.

The comb, while serving a practical purpose, likely also functioned as a status emblem worn by aristocratic women. Its stylistic lineage connects it with earlier jade-metal hybrid artifacts from the Warring States and Western Han periods, while its goldwork foreshadows ornamental motifs that would later define Tang dynasty luxury metalwares.